When the dry season hits and the sun seems to have a personal vendetta against you, there’s nothing more refreshing than a cold dessert. But if you’re looking for something more than just a drink — something sweet, icy, and filling — Es Pisang Ijo is the way to go. This beloved Indonesian treat combines soft sweetness, chewy textures, and ice-cold freshness in every spoonful.
Originating from Makassar, the capital city of South Sulawesi, Es Pisang Ijo is a dessert that’s as rich in flavor as it is in history. At its core, it’s made from ripe bananas — usually pisang raja, pisang ambon, or pisang kepok — wrapped in a soft green dough made from rice flour, coconut milk, and pandan leaf extract. That signature green color and fragrant aroma come from the pandan leaves, which are widely used in Southeast Asian cooking.
The banana parcel is then served with chewy white porridge made from boiled wheat flour (or sometimes bubur sum-sum, a coconut milk-based rice flour pudding). But what truly makes it pop is the drizzle of bright red syrup — a Makassar specialty — and a generous splash of sweetened condensed milk. To finish, a heap of shaved ice or small ice cubes is added, turning it into the ultimate tropical refreshment.
Although it looks simple, Es Pisang Ijo delivers a perfect blend of flavors and textures: sweet, creamy, chewy, icy, and aromatic. It’s often served in a wide bowl or shallow plate, and in Makassar, it’s not unusual to enjoy it alongside snacks like jalangkote (a fried pastry similar to an empanada) or spring rolls. It’s comfort food with a tropical twist.
The Story Behind the Banana
Like many traditional dishes, the origins of Es Pisang Ijo are a bit hazy. There’s no concrete historical record or mention of it in old lontara manuscripts of South Sulawesi. What we do know is that its main ingredient — the banana — has been part of Southeast Asian life for thousands of years.
In their book Pisang: Budi Daya, Pengolahan, dan Prospek Pasar (“Banana: Cultivation, Processing, and Market Prospects”), authors Suyanti and Ahmad Supriyadi note that bananas have been around since the dawn of human civilization. Back then, they grew wild and were not yet cultivated. Cultivation began only when human societies shifted from nomadic life to settled agriculture.
In Southeast Asia, bananas were more than just a snack. People used nearly every part of the plant: the fruit, the shoots, and even the trunk and leaves. Today, Indonesia is one of the largest banana producers in the world. In Java, the biggest production areas are West Java, East Java, and Central Java. Outside Java, South Sulawesi takes the crown.
Bananas are consumed in countless ways: eaten raw, fried, boiled, grilled, or, in this case, wrapped in pandan dough and served over ice. But there’s a key question: how did ice — an equally important component of Es Pisang Ijo — make its way into the Indonesian culinary scene?
From Boston to Batavia: How Ice Arrived in Indonesia
The earliest record of ice consumption in Indonesia comes from a French traveler named Delmas, who visited Batavia (now Jakarta) in 1895. In Nusa Jawa Silang Budaya 2: Jaringan Asia, historian Denys Lombard cites Delmas’s experience drinking “a large glass of cider-champagne, a delicious drink made from local fruits, ice, and soda.”
At that time, ice was a luxury item, affordable only to wealthy families in Batavia. It was expensive because it had to be imported from faraway places — including Boston, USA. Imagine that: ice shipped across the world to the tropics, long before refrigeration was common.
The game changed when European entrepreneurs began building ice factories in Java. This made ice more accessible, though still somewhat exclusive. The Chinese-Indonesian community also played a big role in spreading ice production. One notable figure, Kwa Wan Hong of Semarang, established three ice factories in Semarang, Tegal, and Pekalongan during the 1910s.
Ice Meets Makassar
So how did ice make its way to Makassar? The answer lies in trade. Since the 17th century, Makassar had been connected to Java through a vibrant maritime trading network. This relationship grew even stronger in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, especially when the Dutch colonial government declared Makassar a free port.
During this period, the Koninklijke Paketvaart Maatschappij (KPM), or Royal Dutch Shipping Company, dominated inter-island trade routes. With its powerful fleet, KPM made it easy to transport goods — including ice — between Makassar and other major ports in Indonesia.
The arrival of ice in Makassar likely inspired local food vendors to experiment with new dessert ideas. According to Taufik, a native Makassar Es Pisang Ijo vendor, the dessert wasn’t always as delicious as it is today. In the past, the sauce was made from rice flour and coconut milk, which tasted rather bland. Over time, the recipe evolved: cornstarch replaced rice flour for a smoother texture, and the sweet red syrup became a standard topping.
More Than Just a Dessert
Makassar’s relationship with bananas goes beyond food. Bananas appear frequently in old lontara manuscripts and oral traditions, often carrying symbolic meaning. In local culture, the banana tree is seen as a metaphor for resilience and generosity — qualities valued in Makassarese society.
One local proverb reflects the philosophy of ilmu ta’bang untia, or “the knowledge of a long life.” It says that even when a banana tree is cut down, it continues to grow and eventually bear fruit. In other words, even in hardship, one should continue giving and thriving.
This cultural connection makes Es Pisang Ijo more than just a refreshing snack. It’s a representation of local heritage — a fusion of agricultural history, colonial trade influence, and culinary creativity.
Where to Try Es Pisang Ijo in Makassar
Today, Es Pisang Ijo is a staple in Makassar’s culinary scene. You can find it everywhere, from humble street stalls to high-end hotel restaurants. Some of the most famous spots include:
- Warung Bravo – Often hailed as the best place for Es Pisang Ijo in Makassar.
- Kios La Galigo – A classic stop for locals and tourists alike.
- Rumah Makan Muda Mudi – Serving Es Pisang Ijo alongside traditional Makassarese dishes.
- Warung Raja Pisang Ijo – Known for their generous portions and perfectly balanced sweetness.
The dessert’s popularity has spread far beyond South Sulawesi. Today, you can find it in major cities across Indonesia, from Jakarta to Surabaya, often with slight variations to suit local tastes.
How to Make Es Pisang Ijo at Home
The good news? You don’t have to fly to Makassar to enjoy Es Pisang Ijo. The ingredients are widely available in Asian grocery stores, and the preparation is surprisingly simple.
You’ll need:
- Ripe bananas (pisang raja if you can find them)
- Rice flour
- Coconut milk
- Pandan leaf juice or pandan extract
- Cornstarch (for the sauce)
- Sweetened condensed milk
- Makassar-style red syrup (you can substitute with rose syrup)
- Shaved ice or crushed ice
Basic steps:
- Make the green dough by mixing rice flour, coconut milk, and pandan juice. Steam it until pliable.
- Wrap each banana in the dough, then steam again until cooked through.
- Prepare the sauce by cooking cornstarch with coconut milk until thick.
- Slice the wrapped bananas, arrange them in a bowl, pour the sauce, drizzle with red syrup and condensed milk, and top with ice.
The result? A taste of Makassar in your own kitchen.
Why You’ll Love Es Pisang Ijo
Es Pisang Ijo is more than just a dessert. It’s a sensory journey — the aroma of pandan, the creamy richness of coconut milk, the chill of the ice, and the sweet burst of syrup all come together to create something magical. It’s also a slice of Indonesian history, with each bite telling a story of agricultural heritage, colonial trade routes, and local ingenuity.
So the next time the heat is unbearable and you’re craving something special, remember Es Pisang Ijo. Whether you try it in Makassar, order it in another Indonesian city, or make it at home, you’re not just enjoying a sweet treat — you’re savoring a piece of Makassar’s cultural soul.
